CHARLEVOIX boasts a positively idyllic setting, fronting onto three separate lakes: Michigan, Charlevoix and the beautiful, bowl-shaped Round Lake. Petunia-lined Bridge Street , the two-block downtown, looks over a picturesque, almost landlocked harbor on Round Lake, hemmed in on other sides by terraced ridges. An undeniably beautiful place, in recent years it has become a bit too fancy. Stop by the helpful visitor center , 408 E Bridge St (tel 231/547-2101 or 1-800/367-8557). Two sandy beaches on the Michigan shoreline are great places to watch the sunset.

Lakeside hotels , such as the turreted Weathervane Terrace , 111 Pine River Lane (tel 231/547-9955, ; $160-200), may charge more than $300 on peak weekends. The Charleboyne Motel , at US-31 and Boyne City Road a mile north of town (tel 231/547-9340; $50-75), is small, basic and clean. One of the best value B&Bs , the MacDougall House , 109 Petoskey Ave (tel 231/547-5788, ; $75-100), has private bathrooms and huge breakfasts. Whitney's Oyster Bar , 305 Bridge St (tel 231/547-0818), serves fresh seafood and snacks until 2am with lots of beers and upstairs seating.

Bigger and busier PETOSKEY , sixteen miles north along US-31, high above Lake Michigan, feels more like a real town, with its grand Victorian houses encircling the nicely restored Gaslight District downtown. Ernest Hemingway spent many of his teenage summers here - his novel The Torrents of Spring alludes to several local landmarks. The most central and welcoming hotel is the venerable Perry's Hotel , at Bay and Lewis streets (tel 231/347-4000 or 1-800/737-1899; $100-130); its Noggin Room Pub has good snacks and pizza. The award-winning Serenity B&B , at 618 E Lake St (tel 231/347-1338, ; $130-160), is a big Victorian house serving superb full breakfasts. Budget lodging is sometimes available in the clean dorms at North Central Michigan College, 1515 Howard St (tel 231/348-6611; up to $35). One of Hemingway's favorite hangouts was Jesperson's , 312 Howard St (tel 231/347-3601), which still does great pies and sandwiches. The locally popular Mitchell Street Pub , 426 E Mitchell St (tel 231/347-1801), also offers decent snacks. The town's helpful visitor center is at 401 E Mitchell St (Mon-Fri 8am-4pm; tel 1-800/845-2828, ).

Twelve miles up Hwy-119, HARBOR SPRINGS is a favorite with the Midwestern elite. Its charming main street and small shaded beach with park are certainly captivating, but the sheer ostentation puts many off this "Cornbelt Riviera" resort. The comfy Harbor Springs Cottage Inn , at Bay and Zoll streets (tel 231/526-5431; $100-130), has the only reasonably affordable rooms in town.